Crossing the Connecticut we enter Vermont on Bridge Street (the state line is actually the low water mark at the west bank). Is the Old Tollhouse for the bridge. We are soon at the junction of Route 5, Windsor's Main Street. If we take a left turn here and go a short distance we'll see on our right the American Precision Museum which is housed in the Robbins and Lawrence Armory and Machine Shop (1846, NHL). Its location in this mid-19th century mill complex is significant because it was here that the concept of producing interchangeable parts was introduced to industrial manufacturing (in this case to produce 10,000 rifles to fulfill a government contract). This revolutionary advancement led to Windsor and later Springfield becoming centers of the American machine tool industry. The Museum contains the country's largest collection of historically significant machine tools. Besides numerous exhibits there is an extensive library. [Admission charge. Open every day year round. Tel: 802-674-5781.] |
Windsor "My Birth Place" |
WINDSOR (Settled: 1764. 1990 population: 2438) Like most of the river towns Windsor was settled by people from Connecticut and almost certainly was named for the Connecticut town of the same name. The WPA Vermont guide describes the village as being "admirably situated on a terrace of the Connecticut River with the green hills of Cornish to the east and dark Ascutney filling the western horizon." Mt Ascutney, the inspiration for many a Cornish Colony artist and a constant presence throughout this portion of the Upper Valley, means either "at the end of the river fork" or "three brothers" in Abnaki. Windsor is often called the "Birthplace of Vermont" and the "cradle of the American tool industry," and there's truth to both claims. It also enjoyed remarkable early growth: By 1820 the population had risen to 2956 inhabitants (not much less than at present) making it the state's largest town. Windsor's architectural heritage is particularly strong and varied. |
Turning around, we now head north along Main Street. At this point it's best to find a convenient place to park as most of Windsor's historical sights are within easy walking distance. You might want to head first for Windsor House, (1836, NR), 54 Main Street opposite the Post Office. In its days as a hotel Windsor House was held to be the finest public house between Boston and Montreal. Not only is this a significant building architecturally and historically, it is the home of Historic Windsor, Inc. (and the Vermont Crafts Center) where you can obtain a copy of the excellent and informative An Architectural & Historical Walking Tour of Windsor, Vermont. Some of the highlights: The Old South Congregational Church (1798), Main Street, is a classic Federal style church designed by Asher Benjamin who lived in Windsor for three years and was later to gain widespread fame as an architect and author of builders' guides. The adjoining Cemetery is a pleasant final resting spot for many of Windsor's early notables. In the portion south of the church is a bronze plaque noting the location of Windsor's first meetinghouse, built in 1773. Across the street from the cemetery stands the Windsor Diner (1955), a New England building type (and dining style) gaining in admirers even if declining in numbers. You may wish to walk down Depot Street a block to the Windsor Railroad Station (c. 1905). The train still stops here but the building itself is now a restaurant. Back on Main Street the Italianate-style Post Office and Courthouse (1857) across from Windsor House was designed by Ammi Young, born in Lebanon, NH, and responsible for many important buildings in New England and further afield. Much of the light colored trim is actually cast iron and not stone. The building has the distinction of being the nation's oldest post office in continuous use. Windsor has some interesting commercial architecture: Next to the post office to the south is Romanesque Revival-style Tuxbury Block (1898), still retaining its storefronts, and across the street, south of Windsor House, is the Federal-style Pettes-Journal Block (1824) with its distinctive brick gable end facing the street. |
Further north on Main Street is a remarkable collection of houses noteworthy both for their architecture and their historical importance. The Forbes-Evarts House (1796-97), 38 Main Street, was the home of General Abner Forbes, one of the founders of Kimball Union Academy. This Federal-style house was designed by a partner of Asher Benjamin. It was later owned by William Maxwell Evarts, Windsor's most famous public figure of the 19th century. Evarts, a lawyer, defended President Andrew Johnson in his impeachment trial. He also had, like his son-in-law Charles Beaman over in Cornish, a penchant for acquiring land and owned at one time much of the riverfront property from Windsor north into Hartland. His great grandson, the famous Watergate special prosecutor Archibald Cox, owned the house as well. Next door at 34 Main Street is the equally significant Curtis-Evarts House (1796) also owned by Evarts which along with several others made up the Evarts Compound. It's instructive to note the neighboring houses on either side of Main Street as they run the gamut of architectural styles. Of greatest historical importance is the Old Constitution House (c. 1774, NR) on the west side of Main Street (but originally at the corner of Depot Street). This is where the constitution of the 'Free and Independent State of Vermont' was adopted on July 8, 1777, the first constitution that prohibited slavery. |
Just to the west of Main Street, up State Street, is Court Square, the earlier heart of Windsor. (One can reach there by foot from North Main Street by taking the footpath that passes alongside Lake Runnemede.) There are several notable buildings here particularly St Paul's Episcopal Church (1820-22), an early Greek Revival style church designed by Alexander Parris, the Boston architect responsible for, among other Boston buildings, Quincy Market. Next to the church is the Town Library (1904) designed in the Georgian Revival style. On the far side of the square stands the McIndoe House, (1849) with its steeply pitched roofs and decorative bargeboards, one of the finer examples of the Gothic Revival style in the upper Connecticut River Valley. At the northeast corner of the square is the former Windsor Town Hall, now the American Legion Hall (1881), an interesting example of the Romanesque Revival style. Note the terra cotta decorative panels. |
As you leave Windsor going north on Route 5 look off to the left after passing the Constitution House and you'll see on the far hillside Juniper Hill (1902, NR). This large Colonial Revival-style 28-room mansion, now an inn, was built for Maxwell Evarts, the son of William M. Evarts. Not long after, on the right, is the painted brick Ivy Hall, (1850, NR), built in the Federal style for Bancroft Hall, the minister at Old South Church. It's very close to the site of the first permanent white settlement in Windsor, Steel Smith's 1764 log hut on Hubbard Brook. A bit further on, also on the right, is the Bartlett Farm, (c. 1800). Although now fewer in number this stretch of Route 5 north to Hartland still has some impressive farm properties. The next one is the Ada Townsend House, (c. 1800) on the right with two weathered barns on the west side of Route 5. Following, on the left, is all that remains of a farm complex that once was owned by Marie Dressler, famous for her movie role as 'Tugboat Annie.' Look for the weathered red barn with cupola. On the left, just past the Windsor Country Club, is the Tiffany Estate, once the summer home of the owner of New York's Tiffanys. Soon we pass over the town line into Hartland. |
As we travel north and begin to approach the village of Hartland you may wish to take a right (there's a red brick cape on the corner) onto Martinsville Road (unpaved along most of its length) for a look at the Martin's Mill Covered Bridge (1881, NR), a short distance away. This Town lattice truss bridge spans Lull's Brook and is one of two surviving covered bridges in the town of Hartland. Like the others we've seen on this itinerary it is the work of James Tasker. If you choose this detour, after seeing the bridge you can either turn around and return to Route 5 or continue on Martinsville Road and bear left onto Station Road which comes out by the Congregational Church in Hartland village. If you continue on Route 5, as the road climbs and approaches a bridge, just south of the village, look down to Lull's Brook on the right and notice the wooden and iron-banded penstock that carries water to the small hydro-electric plant. |
Penstock |
Old Courthouse |
Methodist Church |
